Gourmet Traditions, Modern Visions

Dominick and The New Era of The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills

Written by Cary Schultz / Photography by Michael Allen

Stepping into The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills feels like entering a gourmet haven. With over 50 years in business, the shop offers nearly 600 cheeses, cured meats, pastas, a vast wine selection and even exotic ingredients, from Austrian pumpkin seed oil to Golden Imperial Osetra caviar. It even promotes an eco-friendly ethos, inviting customers to refill their olive oil bottles. After 50 years at its original location on North Beverly Drive, the iconic store expanded to a new location on South Santa Monica Boulevard, heralding a fresh chapter under new owner (and long-time employee) Dominick "Dom" DiBartolomeo. Though Dom initially aimed for medical school after graduating from USC, his true calling was elsewhere. Nearly two decades ago, he was juggling a weekend job as a minimum-wage butcher at Bristol Farms while working full-time at a PR agency during the week. When a friend told him about an opening at The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills, he seized the opportunity. "From the moment I walked into the store, I knew the place was special," he recalls of that pivotal career transition. "And here we are today. Our relocation allowed us to evolve the brand in exciting new ways. With the new space, we're not just expanding in terms of square footage; we’re broadening what we can offer our customers to continue innovating and exceeding their expectations," he explains. “We’ll always cherish the memories of our original location, but the new space allows us to take The Cheese Store of Beverly Hills to new heights. The response so far has been nothing short of incredible.”

Founder Colonel Sigmund Roth, second from left, with Neil Hern, left, owner of the Cheese Shop International Franchise in 1967

Founded in 1967, the store was revamped in 1978 by Norbert Wabnig, who introduced European flair and even established the American Artisanal Treasure Awards in 2004. Dom, who took over in March 2022, continues to build on this rich history, maintaining long-time clients and culinary icons like Nancy Silverton and Evan Funke, while also forging a sustainable, community-focused future. Growing up in a close-knit Italian-American family in New York City, Dom was exposed to a rich food culture from a young age. However, it was when he took a job at The Cheese Store that he realized the scale of his culinary aspirations. He began working under the mentorship of Norbert Wabnig, and quickly absorbed the intricacies of the food business. "Working under Norbert was like attending the best university for food," says Dom. "I learned how to interact with customers, maintain an inventory of the highest quality, and most importantly, I learned the value of relationships in this business. Over the past two decades, I've had the privilege of immersing myself in this world and learning the ins and outs of the food business while making incredible relationships."

Norbert Wabnig and the Cheese Store staff in 1978

You might be curious about his personal favorite when it comes to cheese. "This is a really tough question because it's like choosing between children. I think it depends on what mood I'm in. Right now, I'm loving this pecorino cheese infused with wild fennel pollen called Buhailo. It’s from Tuscany, and we import it directly. I love it because every time someone tries it, their eyes just light up. There's something so fulfilling about sharing a cheese that is so unique and special," Dom shares with a laugh. It wasn't just cheese and cured meats that Dom found at the store; he also found love. “The memory forever etched in my heart is meeting my wife Aggie here. It's also where I proposed to her!” Dom recalls. A true family man, he loves watching his daughter Francesca play soccer. “It’s really exciting to see her competitive spirit.”

What set Dom apart was his ability to incorporate his personal history into the store’s offerings. Domenico's Foods, his side venture, started as a humble experiment to jar and sell his family's sun-dried tomato recipe. "My grandfather and I used to make these tomatoes in his basement when I was a kid. Norbert offered me a chance to sell them at the store, and from there, Domenico's Foods just grew," he shares. Designed by award-winning, internationally acclaimed architect Nicolò Bini, the new, larger location is a beautiful space that reflects modern aesthetics and deep-rooted tradition. "I literally would not have trusted anyone else to do this project. Nicolo grew up in Bologna, Italy, so he gets it," says Dom. "As soon as Nicolo walked into the store, he already knew what it was going to look like, and he knew exactly how we were going to continue telling the story," Dom elaborates.

Among the store's fresh offerings is a new takeaway menu. "While we love that our customers take our products home to enjoy outside of the store, we also wanted to offer them a slice of The Cheese Store experience in a ready-to-eat format, perfect for a busy day in LA or a leisurely weekend treat," says Dom. “Our takeaway menu has not only become the talk of the town, but it’s attracting people from all over the city. It's amazing to see familiar faces walking in for their favorite sandwich or salad, and even more exciting when someone new says, ‘I heard so much about this place!’” Still, for Dom, the pinnacle of his journey is not the material success but the relational aspect of it. "The store isn't just a place to buy cheese. It's where stories are exchanged, memories are created and love for food bridges generations and cultures. Many customers have become dear friends and part of our extended family.”

Challenges have been part of this journey, from the global pandemic to the logistical complications of moving locations. However, for Dom, these obstacles are just that—challenges to overcome. "I often say that, even if it sounds cliche, the key is to keep failing forward.” As Dom charts the course for the future, he keeps the store's heritage close to his heart. "Balancing the old with the new is an art that's both challenging and rewarding. My approach has always been to let tradition be the compass, guiding the direction of our business, while also leveraging modern trends and innovations to enhance the customer experience," he says. With a dedication to excellence, the unwavering support of his family, and loyal clientele, we are eager to see their vision unfold and thrive. “We make sure that customers are consistently experiencing something fresh and new while still getting a taste of the legacy and authenticity that's always been a part of the store’s DNA.”